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1. Which parts of the water service line is my responsibility, and which parts are the responsibility of the MFWD?

The property owner's responsibility for maintenance begins immediately after the "curb stop" and extends through the property and all plumbing within the entire home.  The "curb stop" is the main valve, generally located near the property line, housed in a cylinder with a cap on it called the "curb box".  This valve allows the MFWD to turn the water service off or on in an emergency or for repairs. The resident is responsible for all shut off valves on either side of the water meter and the plumbing throughout the home. Although the water meter itself is the property of the MFWD, the customer is responsible for protecting the meter from damage; including freezing. 

2. What if my main shut off valve won't work in an emergency?

Call the Water Department immediately to have someone come out to shut off the water at the street or "curb stop".     

MFWD - 330-688-7491 - $25 fee during business hours 7:30 am to 3:30 pm.

After Hours call Dispatch - 330-688-3555  - $50 fee for after hours call out. 

3. How should I maintain the main water shut off valves?

Keeping the main shut off valves in good working condition will ensure that you are able to turn your water off if one of your pipes breaks, or in the event of another emergency.  Give the valve a turn occasionally to prevent corrosion build up.  If the valve becomes corroded, you should probably replace it.  Call a licensed plumber and then call the Water Department to see about scheduling the water to be shut off at the street.  Generally a 48-hour notice should be given, unless there is an emergency.  There is a $25 charge for the service.  (After hours emergency shut off is $50)

4. What are some common reasons for frozen pipes?

• Unheated basement where the water meter and pipes are located
• Uninsulated pipes running against cold outside walls
• Open or broken windows near water meters or pipes
• Openings or cracks that allow cold air to affect the water meter or pipes
• Water meter and water pipes enclosed or boxed in against outside walls. 

5. How will I know if my pipes are frozen?

Generally, when a pipe that feeds a certain fixture such as a shower, sink, or toilet freezes, you will not be able to get water from that fixture.

6. Why do frozen water pipes break?

When water freezes within a pipe, the volume of water expands.  The same amount of water takes up more space as a solid than as a liquid.  This causes the pipes to expand and possibly break at a weak point.  You may notice this immediately, or it may not become apparent until the pipe begins to thaw, with the break occurring only when full water pressure is restored. 

7. Do water service lines (pipes that run from the house to the street) freeze as well as indoor pipes?

Yes.  Water service lines can freeze when the ground frost gets deep enough to encase your service line in ice.  However, this generally happens only when your service line is less than five fee below the surface of the ground. 

8. What is a water service line?

The water service line is the pipe that connects to the City's water main in the street to your home. This line has valves on it to allow your water to be turned on or off.  There is a valve between the City's main and your home that the Water Department accesses to turn your water on or off.  

9. What should I do if my pipes freeze?

Your best course of action is to call a professional plumber. MFWD can only shut off the water at the street.  There is a fee charged for this service. If you have any emergency and require service disconnection after regular business hours, the fee is increased. 

10. Can I try thawing the pipes myself?

Yes, but you'll need to be very careful!  Some improper thawing methods could cause the pipes to burst; others can injure or even kill you!  Here are some of the safer methods: 

• If possible, expose a boxed-in area to the heat within your home
• Use a heat gun or hair dryer to thaw the pipe, but set the control on "low"!  Be extremely careful, as heat from a heat gun (or, in some cases, from a blow dryer) may ignite nearby wood or paper. 
• Rub the pipe with warm, damp rags to slowly thaw the line
• Keep the faucet open while thawing the pipe.  As the frozen area begins to melt water begins to flow.  This will help melt more ice in the pipe.  Apply heat until full water pressure is restored
• While you're at it, check the other faucets in the house to find out if you have any additional frozen pipes.  If one pipe freezes, others may freeze too. 
• The broken pipe will have to be soldered or replaced.  You must be the judge of whether you can do this yourself, or whether you'll need to call a plumber.   When a break is fixed, make sure the area around the pipe gets plenty of air circulation, so that nearby insulation and other building materials have a chance to dry. 

DO NOT try to thaw a frozen pipe with a blowtorch.  There's a good chance that you will cause the water to boil within the pipe, resulting in an explosion when the pipe bursts.  Also, a blow torch will release poisonous gasses into the air; you might die trying to defrost your pipes!

11. How you can prevent your pipes from freezing

There are many things you can do to keep your pipes from freezing in extreme weather.  Here are just some suggestions:  

• Keep the water meter area on "outside" walls exposed to heat from nearby rooms.
• Allow warm air to circulate around pipes.  Open bathroom and kitchen cabinet doors to allow warmer air to circulate around the plumbing (be sure to move any harmful cleaners and household chemicals out of the reach of kids).
• Better yet, insulate your pipes.  You can buy products made specifically to insulate water pipes, such as "pipe sleeves", "heat tape", "heat cables", or other similar products.  Most of them are available at your local building/home supply center.  Be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions for installing and using these products. 
• Check your home for areas where water pipes are located, especially those in unheated areas.  Look in the basement, crawl spaces, attic, garage and under kitchen and bathroom cabinets.  Both hot and cold water pipes should be insulated - one can freeze just as easily as the other if water is not running through the pipe and the temperature around the pipe is cold. 
• Caulk and seal any openings in outside walls near your water pipes. 
• Got a swimming pool?  Drain the water according to the manufacturer's or installer's instructions. 
• Remove, drain, and store any hoses used outdoors.  Close the inside valves that supply outdoor faucets so the water can drain out.  And leave it open, so that any water remaining in the pipe can expand without causing the pipe to break. 
• Keep the thermostat set to the same temperature both day and night.  You may get a higher heating bill by not lowering the temperature at night, but you can prevent a much more costly repair job if the pipes freeze and burst.  Don't set the temperature below 60 degrees when you go out. 
• If it's absolutely necessary, keep some tap water running.  Not a lot; just a trickle.  Moving water doesn't freeze as readily as stagnant water.  Understand, though that this method will result in an increased water bill.
• If no one will be home for an extended period of time during extreme weather (going to Florida for the winter?), you might consider turning your main valve off altogether and hiring a plumber to drain your system, including all water pipes and fixtures.  That way, there will be no water in your pipes to freeze.  Even if your pipes have never frozen before, there's always the chance that a severe cold snap could cause an electrical blackout that disables your furnace.  Winterizing your water system will ensure that your pipes don't freeze.